Best Way to Kill Rats & Mice - Rat Zapper 2000 |
||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||
 Last
year I had mice in the house and I bought some of those electronic
noise things that are supposed to repel them.
It said on the box that the noise would annoy the mice and they would leave, but it would take a few days. No doubt they were annoyed because they left the kitchen and started running around the living room. At this point my dog caught and killed them. The past few weeks she has been hunting a rat outside in the back yard. I have seen him in the tree and I know the dog will never catch it since she can't climb trees. After a bit of research I decided to buy an electronic Rat Zapper. After the second night I had a dead rat. The Rat Zapper runs on 4 AA batteries (not included) and it puts out a high voltage, low amp shock. After the rat or mouse has been killed a light will blink on top of the unit to let you know something is in there. Just shake the unit over the trash can and out falls your dead rat or mouse. No blood, guts and gore. Reset the trap and you are ready to catch another. You should get 10 to 30 kills from one set of batteries. |
||||||||||||||
If you click on the inside view picture above you will see the small square kill plate towards the back of the unit. The floor of the unit is metal and runs to the back where you see the vertical plate in the back side view. This is all one piece of metal, you can touch this and won't be shocked. In order for a shock to occur you must bridge the area between the small square kill plate and the other piece of metal. This means the rodent must go all the way to the back of the box to be killed. It also offers some protection from your dog or cat sticking their nose where it doesn't belong. Knowing the great hunter would go crazy if she smelled a rat in there I decided to build a box to put my rat zapper in. I put a hole in each end of the box and one in the top. The hole in the top is so I can see when the light is flashing, I glued a piece of clear plastic under the hole as I also wanted to keep any moisture away from the electronic part of the unit. I added hinges and a hasp and I now have a dog proof box. The instructions say you should put food in the rat zapper and set it out without turning it on for a night or two. Let the wary rats or mice get used to it. Well I don't have that much patience and figured I would just shock them while they were getting used to it. After the first night my light was flashing and the box was empty except for a few ants. Was it the rat, wasn't there enough power I wondered. Some food was missing. After the second night the light was flashing again and this time I got my rat, a big one! Click here if you really want to see him. I used dog food since that is what I had available but dry cat food is supposed to work even better. Drop some pieces in and roll them all the way to the back, you don't want to bridge that gap between the kill plate and the other piece of metal. Then set some pieces of food on the metal plate at the entrance. After that is done and the rat zapper is in place you can turn it on. The red light will flash once to let you know you have power. After a kill the light will flash continuously to let you know you need to empty the rat zapper. It also turns itself off, it doesn't keep zapping until you get there, no fried mice. You should get 10 to 20 kills off one set of batteries. The rat zapper is a quick and clean way to kill mice and rats. If you try to poison rats and mice they could die in your attic or walls and you will have to smell them for weeks until they decompose. The worst part about using poison is the rodent will take several days to die. During this time it will become sluggish and is easy prey for dogs, cats and birds. If an animal eats the dying rodent it will die too!
|
||||||||||||||
 |
