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| Kitchen Cabinet Install - Cabinet Levelers & Brackets - Kitchen Sink Plumbing - Cabinet Tools - Cabinet Links |
PVC Electrical Box Extenders for Tiled Backsplash |
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Electrical Box Extenders - Tile Layout - Grouting Tile
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Now you are almost ready to tile your wall. I am using 6" x 6" Mardi Gras tile and 1/8" tile spacers. I measured the 6" x 6" tile and found that it is actually 1/8" smaller than 6". I check to make sure the bottom of my cabinets are level and measure down 6". This is where I am going to start the first row. This will leave a 1/8" gap between the tile and the cabinets which I will later fill with caulk, not grout. Around your cabinets and countertop or wherever the tile meets different surfaces you should use caulk instead of grout. This allows for expansion and will help to prevent cracking as things move over the years. Next I find the center of the wall, make a mark and do a dry layout on my tile. I find that this will leave less than half a tile on each end. Not a good thing, so I shift everything to the left and start in the corner. They say never to start in the corner, but hey, a girl has gotta do what a girl has gotta do. I am using a pre-mixed adhesive from Custom Building Products (Omnigrip® Ultimate Tile Adhesive) it is available at Home Depot and resists mold and mildow and shrinks 33% less than traditional tile adhesives. It is also 30% lighter than traditional adhesives which I think would be an advantage when using it on walls. This tile adhesive dries much slower than the thin-set mortar I used on my floors. It is also more like a caulk and easier to clean up than thin-set which is similar to cement. Though manufacturers say the pre-mixed adhesives can be used on the floor, everything I have read says don't do it. Use tile-set mortar for the flooring. Now that I have used both I agree. I am using a low cost tile saw which makes cutting tile to fit around outlets a breeze. The main thing is to take your time and make sure you get your tile level. The pictures below show my progress on day one. As you can see I make quite a mess when I work, but things will look much better when I remove the tile spacers and clean up the ooze. Most people install the backsplash after the countertop is in. I am doing things a bit different and doing the tile first. I removed the 4" backsplash from the old laminate top so that I can tile slightly below this level. When the new countertop is installed it will cover a bit of the tile. This means I don't have to trim the tile along the bottom, however that is not the reason I am doing it this way. Because of a bad plaster job when the house was built it is not possible to get my cabinets straight if they are flat against the wall. There is a bit of a gap between my walls and my cabinets. The added thickness of the tile will actually help to level things out a bit. It will also make it much easier if I decide to add a granite countertop later. |
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I am not a tile expert but if I can do this, you probably can too. The main thing is to have the right tools and to take your time. There is tons of free information on the Internet. If you don't understand something look around until you find the right information. Below are some links to help you out.
Ceramic Tile Installation LinksTile Backsplash & Countertop Installation Kitchen Backsplash Ideas & Installation Instructions Order Electrical Box Extenders Online
Watch Electrical Box Extender Video
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